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 Sefton Park
and Princes Park, are
the last reminders that Toxteth was once a huge Royal Park and that this whole
area was open countryside. The incorporation of Toxteth into Liverpool in the 19th
century and the subsequent rapid expansion of the housing, which eventually
covered the area, meant that this countryside was rapidly
being swallowed up.
By the
1860s there was a demand of public parks to counter the spread of
unbroken streets of close packed terraced housing.
In 1862 the Borough
Engineer, James Newlands, (incidentally, the country's first borough engineer) recommended a site for this development. In
1864 Parliament granted powers to allow councils to borrow money
and this in turn enabled the purchase of land and planning of several
parks in Liverpool.
Sefton Park was the largest of these new
parks and in 1867 when the purchase of the land was completed, Liverpool
Corporation had purchased 387 acres of land from the Earl of Sefton,
at a reputed cost of £250,000. Land, estimated at 110-160 acres) was set
aside for the building of houses and mansions around the perimeter
of the new park. These were to be sold to offset the development
costs of the park itself. This followed the financial model established
when Richard Vaughn Yates built Princes Park as a private venture
earlier in the century.
Once the purchase of the land was underway the
Corporation held a public competition for the design of the park,
with a first prize of 300 guineas and second prize of 150 guineas. 29 entries were received
varying in cost from £13,000 to £158,000. The winners were
André and Hornblower.
The Frenchman Edouard André
had previously designed the Tuileries Gardens in Paris and had been
a pupil of Alphand, a great landscape gardener for Napoleon III.
Local architect Louis Hornblower was involved in the design of park
features such as gates, bridges and buildings at Birkenhead and
Princes Park.
Hornblower was responsible for the buildings and features whilst
André's designs for the geography and layout featured the circles
and curves characteristic of exisiting French park designs but he
provided a host of features to suit the tastes of the time. The
original design (left) shows a Cricket
Pavilion, a Crouquet lawn and Archery field, an aviary (shown below), a pavilion, summer
house, a swan hut, cast-iron fountains, a sheep pen, arbours for
tea parties, a music pavilion and a restaurant. A deer park also
featured, but is is doubtful if it ever actually contained any deer,
unlike Kings Johns deer park here.
The cricket ground, plantings and rockeries were completed to
the original plans but many of the other features became the casualties
of an original estimate of £85,00 which spiralled to £250,000, causing
a rethink and a less grand design costing £150,000.
  The lakes and connecting
streams took advantage of the exisiting streams (the Lower Brook and Upper
Brook) which had their confluence within the park and the design utilised the two natural valleys of
these streams.
The largest lake, the boating lake was 5 acres
in extent and featured a landing stage and boating house towards the
Otterspool end. Both ends are shown here, left and right.
  
Boating,
fishing and sailing of model yachts were all to become popular pastimes
on the new lake. The boat house and shelter in these pictures is useful
to orientate yourself

  The park was officially opened
to the public on 20th May
1872 by H.R.H. Prince Arthur, First Duke of Connaught and Strathern, the
third son of Queen Victoria. The great day was figured in the Illustrated
London News in 1872. (right). Prince Arthur left the Town Hall in a mile-long procession
made up of 77 carriages containing dignitaries and guests. He was to be greeted at a grandstand
built to accommodate 5,000 people, sited at the gates of Sefton Park (opposite
Princes Park).
The columns of these gates were themselves salvaged
from St Georges Hall when they were removed to facilitate the installation
of the Great Organ. (Mull Granite yet again) The following day the Prince opened the Royal
Southern Hospital
which was itself partly financed by a fair at Sefton Park. Some years later,
in 1886, Queen Victoria
herself visited the park travelling along Ullet Road according to
newspaper reports of the time.
 The
Illustrated London News has an additional, rather
gloomy, woodcut of the newly opened park, in which the new trees
and young plantings shown, result in a very stark vista which was
to soften gloriously with time.
Even after the opening, development continued. The Iron Bridge at
the head of the Fairy Glen (spanning the valley and waters of the
Upper Brook) near the Queens
Drive entrance was completed in 1873.
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Picture postcards
of this area seem very popular and are frequently found.
Sadly
two of these are un-dated.
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Development of the perimeter housing
also continued after the park opened - 50 houses and villas being completed by 1882 and
full development as late as 1890. The total number of houses
built fell short of the original plan but these houses, each built
to the owners own plans, form a delighfully eccentric backdrop to
the park. As wealth has shifted, so many have now become flats,
hotels, nursing homes or have simply fallen into disrepair, through
lack of care, including
one which I was involved with many years ago in a University study
into the spread of dry rot. The infected building was barred, locked
and literally left to rot, under observation!
The Palm House
was not an original feature of André and Hornblower's plans but
was a gift, at a cost of £12,000, to the city, from Henry Yates
Thompson, the grand-nephew of the founder of Princes Park. It was
designed by the Edinburgh firm, Mackenzie and Moncur and was completed
in 1896. The Palm House is 100 feet wide and 82 feet high,
consisting of an iron frame supporting a glass dome similar in style
to The Crystal Palace and the Palm House in Kew Gardens in London.
It stands on a base of red granite from the Scottish island
of Mull. The Mull Granite is also found in columns at the
Ullet Road entrance to the Park and it is the material used for the
obelisk in nearby Princes Park.
Opened in 1896 the 'Great Conservatory' took the place of the band pavilion,
shown on the plan above, and with its exotic plants and marble statues; it became the
centrepiece of Sefton Park. The statues are a feature of the Palm House and are
detailed below. It also featured a large ornamental bench in commemoration of
Henry Yates Thompson.
At the outset of WW2, in 1939, the Liverpool Records Office
states that the Palm House was camouflaged in
case the glass reflected moonlight and acted as a guide for enemy
planes. Matt, oil-based paint was used and grey, simulated 'paths' were painted
over the dome. The remainder was coloured green to blend in with the
surrounding parkland, where barrage balloons and anti-aircraft guns were stationed. During the Blitz in May 1941, a bomb fell
close by, shattering almost all of the glass, but the ironwork survived.
The bomb damage suffered in the Blitz was the start of the decline in the fortunes
of the Palm House. Although the glass was
replaced (at a cost then exceeding £6,000) expansion and contraction of the different
types of iron in the building and shrinkage of the glazing putty, led to the gradual
deterioration of the glazed canopy. Accelerated by weather damage
and vandalism, the spiral of decline increased. This was
aided by the highly antagonistic attitude of the council during the 'looney left'
political era in Liverpool in the 1970's and 1980's. A
period which also saw
the closure and demolition of the Harthill greenhouses at Calderstones
Park, after union intimidation failed to produce a walkout of the
dedicated staff. The largely derelict Sefton Park Palm House was now
closed to the public on
grounds of safety and for a long time it was threatened with demolition.
In 1991 a campaign was organised and 800 people attended a public meeting to support
the rescue of the Palm House. A 'Sponsor a Pane' programme and fund raising
enabled partial
restoration and re-opening within two years. The award a £2.5 million Heritage Lottery Grant ensured
a completion of the restoration. Work on this began in 2000 and on 6th September 2001, the
Palm House was officially re-opened.
The Palm House is now listed as a Grade 2 building
of architectural and historic interest. Today it
is managed by Sefton Park Palm House Preservation Trust, a website
tells you more.
 
The
original cafe in the centre of the park is shown here. Just behind was the aviary
and a rare early shot of the aviary, soon
after construction is shown here. In later years this was altered
but certainly into the 1960s, perhaps later, it
still contained rather sad looking birds. I am told it is due for
demolition soon.
Peter
Pan : A statue of Peter Pan was added close to the Cafe and
Aviary at the heart of the park.
The statue was made by Sir George Frampton and
donated to the park by George Audley, a wealthy businessman from Birkdale.
In the spring of 1927 Audley had visited Frampton's studio with
members of the Liverpool Arts Committee, in connection with the Liverpool Autumn
Exhibition and had seen there the original cast of Peter Pan
(which is in Kensington Gardens
in London).
Audley persuaded Frampton to cast a
replica for the children of Liverpool.
In total just four castings were made and these
are now in Australia, Canada, Kensington
Gardens and Sefton Park.
The replica casting was one of Frampton's last
works as he died on 21st May 1928, just
weeks before the unveiling of Peter Pan in Sefton Park
on 16th June 1928 by a relative of Sir J M Barrie, (the author
of Peter Pan.) thought to have been either a cousin or a niece,
Nearby
were a
Wendy Hut and Jolly Roger ship which were unveiled on the same
day. Although these no longer exist
in the park this postcard (right) shows the second Pirate ship with Peter Pan
visible
in the background. The original is below and
was built by Cunard. I have been told that it was a converted
lifeboat.
The
history is complicated by the two Jolly
Rogers and one cannot always be certain to which of them
the descriptions, or stories, attach. One Jolly Roger was
reportedly to be found outside the Merseyside Police HQ in Canning Place
although a recent search failed to locate it. I have since
learned that this 'siting' was associated not with the Sefton Park ' Jolly Rogers'
at all
but was a left-over from the Liverpool Garden Festival site.
There were apparently also two cannon guns in the
same area which came from a ship named The Albert Victoria (or visa versa).
  To celebrate the unveiling a pageant took place.
A slim booklet was produced to mark the occasion entitled "The Pageant of Peter Pan on the
Occasion of the Presentation of the Statue, the gift of Mr. Geo.
Audley". Pageant in Sefton Park, Liverpool, 16th June 1928, Written
& produced by Percy F. Corkhill, C.B.E. by permission of Sir James
Barrie, O.M. Music by James Crooks, Illustrated by T.J. Bond".
I now have a copy and details of this have been added HERE.
Celebrations were later held around
Peter Pan, in 1937, to mark the coronation of King George VI
and the statue became a the
centre of interest for generations of Liverpool children, myself
included, (left, 1954). The later history of the statue mirrors
that of the Liverpool Parks themselves - it was neglected and vandalised, parts were
broken
off and other bits were stolen.
In August 2001 the statue was removed
by a team from the Merseyside
Conservation Centre. I gather that it has been conserved and
cleaned, corrosion removed and stolen parts replicated in bronze and re-attached.
The eventual aim was to return it to a secure location within
the park. The
detailed story can be found at the liverpool
museums website. Plans were to place it near, or within, the newly
refurbished Palm House. When I tried to enquire at the Conservation Centre
the centre itself was closed pending redevelopment. January
2005 - I am able to complete the story for
you, the statue has been replaced in the park but resited close to the Palm
House.
Fountains:
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There
were at least two fountains on one of the lakes many years ago, I seem to remember
that they were never working, but clearly they did at some stage, as
shown here, left.
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The Shaftsbury Memorial Fountain (right)
was, like Peter
Pan, a gift from George Audley.
It was a copy of the London Eros fountain created in bronze
and aluminium by Sir Alfred Gilbert. It was opened
in Sefton park in 1932, George Audley was by this time, dead, but Gilbert himself attended the
unveiling.
Statues :
A statue of politician and refromer William Rathbone (1787 - 1868) stands above
the head of the main boating lake.
A 60 ft granite obelisk at the city-centre-end of the Park is a memorial
to Samuel Smith who died in 1906. Smith was a cotton broker and councillor.
The Samuel Smith obelisk was linked to
the Eros fountain by an avenue of elm trees.
Unfortunately Sefton Park was one of the first areas in the country to
suffer from the ravages of Dutch Elm Disease.
Palm
House sculptures
  The Palm
House sculptures include 'One whom the
Gods Loved' by P. Park;
'Two Goats' by Giovita Lombardi ( here shown
left, within the original palm house, on an old postcard )
'Europa' by V.
Luccardi;
'The Angel's Whisper' and 'Highland Mary' by Benjamin
Spence.
The corners of the octagonal Palm House are each marked by eight
figures chosen by Thompson. Four depict great mariners and explorers - Cook, Columbus,
Mercator, and Prince Henry the Navigator. Four are of men of science
Charles Darwin, Carl Linnaeus, and the apothecary
John Parkinson. After these three men, I cannot help but wonder if the decision to include Frenchman, Andre
le Notre as statue number eight, may have been influenced more
by the nationality of
Edouard Andre, who although a notable French garden designer, hardly
ranks amongst the greatness or notability of the other statues.
Finally a few odds and ends, still to be placed within the text
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The Island in the lake showing the bandstand
and stepping stone bridge
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The bandstand, located on the island served
by the bridge shown left and right.
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One of the lakes and the bridge to
the bandstand island
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The
Grotto the emergence of the Lower Brook
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The postcard says 'Children's Garden,
Sefton Park' - this is in fact Newsham Park
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The Fairy Glen from the bridge
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The Fairy Glen as the Upper Brook joins
the lake
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